Basic Training

PRACTICE TRAINING AT HOME (INTRO)

Training a puppy is done every day, and every minute of every day. Even if you don’t realize it, each interaction you have with your puppy is “teaching” him/her what is expected and what will be tolerated. For this reason, it is important that you provide solid, consistent expectations for your puppy from the moment he/she arrives home. Consistency, patience, a schedule, and positive interactions will pay off in the long run when your puppy understands exactly what is expected of him/her. The faster your new puppy understands his routine and what you expect of him, the happier he will be and the faster your bond will develop. A confused puppy, an ignored puppy, a spoiled puppy, all make for a difficult puppy. A house without rules will soon be home to an unruly puppy. It is important that everyone in your home be on the same page as far as reasonable expectations, cue words for training, and scheduling.

Leash Training (Getting your puppy to walk on the leash)

Your new puppy will not automatically know how to walk on a leash. He will resist it and may even scream, having a temper tantrum because he wants to go in different direction! Slowly introduce your puppy to the leash, encouraging him to follow you by calling his name and telling him he is a good boy, but NEVER drag or pull him, as this will choke the puppy and cause him to fear you and the leash. Even if you have a fenced in yard and don’t need to formally “walk” him, it is important to teach your pup to accept the leash and walk willingly with it. Using the leash will also speed up housebreaking and protect the puppy from getting into trouble by wandering away or eating something he finds outside because you will have control of him and supervise him when he is outside. Within a couple of days, the puppy will get the hang of the leash and will happily follow you in new adventures outside. We recommend using a lightweight, nylon leash that is 4-6 foot in length. This is a good length of leash to have control over the puppy’s adventures without him wandering too far. It is important from the first day home that the puppy understands that you are the boss and he should happily follow you. Use of a longer leash or a retractable leash is not recommended.

Slowly allowing him to adjust to walking on a leash with your encouragement is what is going to help you get him started for more formalized training in the future to teach him manners. Start by using the leash at the start of housebreaking. Take the puppy out of to the bathroom by first putting the leash on the puppy and carrying the puppy out the same door to the same spot, use the word “out” or “potty” or “bye-bye” whatever word you want to use to associate the leash, and the door, with going outside.

TRAINING LEAD:

The lead or leash should be made of nylon and flat, six foot in length. The lead should be snapped to the loop of the collar that allows the collar to “slip” and tighten and loosen lead so that the collar can “snap and release”.

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SIT:

An authoritative voice should command the puppy using the word “Sit” followed by a short, quick, sharp, correction while simultaneously pushing down gently on the puppy’s hindquarters therefore placing him into a sitting position. When the puppy is in the correct position, you will reinforce the word “sit”. The sit command can be combined with the heel command. As you walk alongside your dog, stop at the corner of each street and ask your pup to sit. If your dog does not stop when you do, give a sharp tug on the leash to remind the dog. Many dogs will instinctively stop when you do, while others need to be reminded through the use of the leash and the training collar.

The sit command is a vital link in the chain of proper dog training and is usually one of the first and easiest things a puppy learns in his new home. Teaching a dog to sit on command, will form the groundwork of much of your future training together, so it is important for your puppy to master this vital skill. It teaches the puppy to have patience and wait, and curbs his impulse control as he matures.

Training sessions with your pup should start inside your home or yard so there is less distractions for the pup. As training progresses over time (and once the puppy completes his vaccinations), you can alter your locations to include public areas such as a park or public streets so that the pup learns to follow and obey you regardless of what is going on around him.

It is important to ensure that you have control over the situation so that if you tell your pup to sit, he can’t just walk away without completing the command. Therefore, it is important during early training sessions of any new command that you have your pup attached to a leash. Start by asking him to sit by pushing gently on his hindquarters as you say the word “sit”. It is important not to use too much pressure. Do not push him down too abruptly as doing so could frighten, or even injure the dog. Rather, apply a steady downward pressure. Most dogs will recognize this as a sit command. It is important to say the word “sit” as you do this. Repeat this procedure a few times by walking, stopping and asking your dog to sit. After a few days of repetitions, the dog will probably begin to sit down on his own. It is important to say the word sit each time, so that the dog will eventually learn to respond to voice commands alone. It is also important to praise the puppy each time he obeys. A simple “good boy” and gentle pat on the head is all he needs to encourage him.

The “Release” command All commands that you teach your pup also have to include a “release” command so the pup has an end signal allowing him to be free from the command to be able to move. The release command can be something simple like moving from one command to another command such as from a “sit” to a “come” or a “sit” to a “down” but it is also important to have a simple end of session command such as “ok” or “release” which allows the pup to be free to move about on his own, signaling the end of his training session.

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DOWN:

The puppy is put in the down position the same way as the sit above except the gentle push is exerted upon his shoulder area rather than the hindquarters. Again, the word “down” should be repeated when the puppy is placed in the correct position.

The down command can be a difficult command to master for the active puppy that doesn’t like to sit still and may be the easiest command to master for the laidback pup! Regardless of what unique challenges your pup brings to the training session, “down” is an important command to work on. The down command can be accomplished by using a couple different techniques depending upon which works best for you and your pup. Regardless of the technique used, it is best accomplished while using a leash and training collar for best results and is best suited for practice after your pup has learned and mastered the sit and stay commands.

Downward leash pressure: This technique has you facing the pup while he is in a sit position. Use the command “down” while leaning down, simultaneously pull the leash down towards the ground, bringing the pup into a down via the leash applying pressure. Once the pup is down, tell him to stay so he holds the position.

Downward pressure on the pup’s shoulders: This technique has the pup sitting at your left side in the same direction (as in a starting heel position). Use the command “down”, simultaneously and gently push down on the pup’s shoulders to push him into the down position. Once the pup is down, tell him to stay so he holds the position.

Praise and Reward is Important It is also important to praise the puppy each time he obeys the command(s). A simple “good boy” and gentle pat on the head is all he needs to encourage him.

The “Release” command All commands that you teach your pup also have to include a “release” command so the pup has an end signal allowing him to be free from the command to be able to move. The release command can be something simple like moving from one command to another command such as from a “sit” to a “come” or a “sit” to a “down” but it is also important to have a simple end of session command such as “ok” or “release” which allows the pup to be free to move about on his own, signaling the end of his training session.

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STAY:

The puppy is put into a stay position only AFTER he is already in the Sit or Down position and should never be told to stay when in a standing position. Upon the completion of sit or down, a flat hand is placed in front of the puppy’s face and the word “Stay” is commanded. The handler then allows some slack in the lead and walks to the end of the lead while repeating the command “Stay” to the puppy. If the puppy tries to move or follow the handler, the puppy is given a short, immediate correction and immediately placed back in the same spot while the command is repeated.

The “Stay” Command The “Stay” command is the easiest and at the same time the most difficult command to master. Mastering the stay may literally save his life one day so it is very important that you begin training for the stay command early and continue to practice and refresh the command as your dog matures. The stay command is also a vital building block to other, more advanced training techniques.

The stay command is best taught to coincide with the sit command in beginner training sessions and should be taught while on a leash for better control. As you and your pup advance through training sessions, you can teach the pup to “stay” while lying down or standing, basically stopping whatever he is doing at that moment and staying or waiting to be released from the command. To begin, have your dog sit and while he is sitting, slowly back away while still facing the dog, raising the palm of your hand in front you towards the pup while authoritatively commanding “stay” in a strong voice. In the beginning it is important not to move too far away from the pup so he remains under your control. If the dog begins to follow you, as he probably will it first, bring the dog back to the same spot he started, and tell him to sit and stay again. Repeat the process until you can reach the end of the leash without your dog getting up from a sitting position. Slowly increase the length of time the puppy must remain in the stay position.

After the dog is reliably staying where you place him, you can try using a longer leash (such as a 15 or 20 foot leash) and backing further away. It will probably take the dog some time to reliably stay where he is put without becoming distracted. At first he may only be able to sit still for 15 seconds due to his age and lack of training but as he progresses with training and matures, you can add more time so he stays for several minutes at a time with distractions surrounding him.

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COME:

After walking to the end of the lead and repeating the command “Stay”, switch the lead from you’re right hand to your left hand and extend your arm, then pull the puppy toward you as you command the puppy to “Come”.

The come command is a very important part of proper dog training and is usually one of the first and easiest things a puppy learns in his new home. Teaching a pup to come on command, will form the groundwork of much of your future training together, so it is important for your puppy to master this vital skill. In this initial bonding experience, your pup will come to you eagerly when coaxed using the soft encouraging words of “come”, along with a special whistle or clucking noise to peak his interest in coming over to you.

Training sessions with your pup should start inside your home or yard so there is less distractions for the pup. As training progresses over time (and once the puppy completes his vaccinations), you can alter your locations to include public areas such as a park or public streets so that the pup learns to follow and obey you regardless of what is going on around him.

It is important to ensure that you have control over the situation so that if you tell your pup to come, he can’t just walk away without completing the command. Therefore, it is important during early training sessions of any new command that you have your pup attached to a leash. Start by asking him to come and gently coaxing him while you slowly reel him in like a fish using the leash. It is important not to use too much pressure or pull too abruptly as doing so could frighten, or even injure the dog. It is important to say the word “come” several times as you do this. After a few days of repetitions, the dog will probably begin to come to you on his own without pulling on the leash. It is important to say the word come each time, so that the dog will eventually learn to respond to voice commands alone.

The come command can be combined with the sit command. As your pup comes to you, when he arrives to you ask him to sit when he reaches you. This will reinforce that he is expected to comply and you can praise him for complying with the two commands. After the dog is reliably coming to you, you can try using a longer leash (such as a 15 or 20 foot leash) and calling him to come to you from further away. It will probably take your pup some time to reliably come without becoming distracted.

Praise and Reward is Important It is also important to praise the puppy each time he obeys. A simple “good boy” and gentle pat on the head is all he needs to encourage him.

The “Release” command All commands that you teach your pup also have to include a “release” command so the pup has an end signal allowing him to be free from the command to be able to move. The release command can be something simple like moving from one command to another command such as from a “sit” to a “come” or a “sit” to a “down” but it is also important to have a simple end of session command such as “ok” or “release” which allows the pup to be free to move about on his own, signaling the end of his training session. the end of the leash without your dog getting up from a sitting position. Slowly increase the length of time the puppy must remain in the stay position.

Complete the Sit, Stay, Come Skit

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HEEL:

The “Heel” command is accomplished by commanding the puppy to “heel” or follow the handler within close proximately to his/her LEFT leg. The puppy is given short repeated corrections as needed to stay within a foot of the handler at all times. The puppy should not lead or lag behind and should be attentive to the handler’s leg movements and terms. Zigzags and figure eights as well as stopping and starting and walking at different speeds are a good way to practice with the puppy and to keep the puppy’s attention. In addition, the puppy should stop and immediately be placed in a sit position next to the handler while in the stop position and until asked to heel again. PRACTICE: The handler should work with the puppy daily. Each session should last no longer than 15 minutes at first. More frequent, shorter lessons per day is better than a single longer session. Lots of verbal and physical praise should be used when working with the puppy and each session should end on an “up” note. If the session isn’t going well, its better to end the session and try again at a later time rather than becoming frustrated and angry. A treat may be used for positive reinforcement at the END of each session. NEVER, EVER hit the puppy. A correction should be given while reinforcing the verbal command. Vary the routines and locations of the training sessions to stimulate the puppy and prevent boredom. Training is a time to bond with your puppy and spend quality time together while making him/her a well-rounded dog. ENJOY!

The “Release” command
All commands that you teach your pup also have to include a “release” command so the pup has an end signal allowing him to be free from the command to be able to move. The release command can be something simple like moving from one command to another command such as from a “sit” to a “come” or a “sit” to a “down” but it is also important to have a simple end of session command such as “ok” or “release” which allows the pup to be free to move about on his own, signaling the end of his training session.

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Drop It

The drop it command is a very important command to learn for many reasons. It could literally save your dog’s life if he ever attempts to eat something that could harm him! It could also save something valuable if your pup decides that the cash in your wallet is tasty! It is also most important as this command teaches your pup to “share”.

The drop it command should be started as soon as the puppy arrives to your new home and practiced daily as there will be many opportunities to practice this command as the puppy is teething! Each time the pup brings you a toy, you should use the phrase “drop it” as you gently take it from him. If the pup picks up something he shouldn’t have, offer the pup a toy to trade as you tell him to “drop it” and gently remove the item from his mouth. Even if you enjoy playing tug of war with your pup, it is important for him to understand that he doesn’t control “winning” the game and at any point during the tug you can end the game by simply saying “drop it”, signaling to the pup that he must give up the object of his affection and surrender it to you.

This command is an important command to prevent any possibility of “resource guarding” in the future as he matures, which is also referred to as food or toy aggression. The pup must understand that nothing is “his” to protect. You are the boss, you control what he has, and you control the ability to take it away at any point. Allowing a pup to keep an object whether it be food, a bone, or a toy, and not “share” it is unacceptable.

Sharing is also an important aspect of feeding. While technically the pup wouldn’t “drop” his food, it is important that he learn to share it with you. You can practice by picking up the food or water bowl while he is in the middle of eating or drinking. Alternatively, place your hand in his dish and hand feed him from the dish while he eats so he gets used to you being part of each meal and “shares”. If there is a toy or bone that he seems especially attached to, practice taking it from him and let him watch you have it for a few minutes before returning it so he understands that you aren’t taking it forever, you simply want to “share”. NEVER allow the pup to lunge towards an item you are giving him. Teach him to gently take it from you. If he lunges, don’t give it to him. Try again after a few seconds while saying “be nice” or “gentle” and repeat as necessary until the pup understands to be gentle when taking something from your hand.

Praise and Reward is Important It is also important to praise the puppy each time he obeys. A simple “good boy” and gentle pat on the head is all he needs to encourage him to share.

Resource Guarding

“Resource guarding” is a term used to explain when a puppy doesn’t want to “share” and becomes protective, growling, or turning his back to you so as not to give up what he considers “his”. In canine pack behavior this is a normal way dogs interact and establish boundaries and hierarchy, but it should never be tolerated or encouraged towards humans as you must always maintain yourself as the leader of your dog’s pack. If not handled early and correctly, this can progress to aggression. This is why it is so important to establish rules and boundaries the moment the puppy enters your home for the first time. It is much easier and faster to prevent an issue rather than having to fix the issue after it. Although it may appear “cute” to see a 5 pound puppy growling at you while he proudly carries his bone and you may laugh at the sight, it will no longer be cute when that 5 pound puppy turns into a 60 pound snarling and snapping adult!

Resource guarding can be seen in a wide variety of situations. Guarding of food, possessions, people, or places, are all typical examples of guarding behavior. Puppies usually exhibit this behavior at a young age and the signs may be subtle, therefore being overlooked by the inexperienced owner. Although this behavior is considered normal for a young pup, as the pup matures it can become more overt and may spread to all aspects of what the dog considers to be “his”, ending with the dog becoming more and more aggressive in his need to protect his property or space.

Proper training techniques should be a part of your daily life with your young puppy. The pup must understand that nothing is “his” to protect. You are the boss, you control what he has, and you control the ability to take it away at any point. Allowing a pup to keep an object whether it be food, a bone, or a toy, and not “share” is unacceptable. Allowing a puppy to prevent you from entering a room or getting close to a specific person because he is “guarding” is also not acceptable and must be addressed immediately.

The drop it command should be started as soon as the puppy arrives to your new home and practiced daily as there will be many opportunities to practice this command as the puppy is teething! Each time the pup brings you a toy, you should use the phrase “drop it” as you gently take it from him. If the pup picks up something he shouldn’t have, offer the pup a toy to trade as you tell him to “drop it” and gently remove the item from his mouth. Even if you enjoy playing tug of war with your pup, it is important for him to understand that he doesn’t control “winning” the game and at any point during the tug you can end the game by simply saying “drop it”, signaling to the pup that he must give up the object of his affection and surrender it to you.

Sharing is also an important aspect of feeding. While technically the pup wouldn’t “drop” his food, it is important that he learn to share it with you. You can practice by picking up the food or water bowl while he is in the middle of eating or drinking. Alternatively, place your hand in his dish and hand feed him from the dish while he eats so he gets used to you being part of each meal and “shares”. If there is a toy or bone that he seems especially attached to, practice taking it from him and let him watch you have it for a few minutes before returning it so he understands that you aren’t taking it forever, you simply want to “share”. NEVER allow the pup to lunge towards an item you are giving him. Teach him to gently take it from you. If he lunges, don’t give it to him. Try again after a few seconds while saying “be nice” or “gentle” and repeat as necessary until the pup understands to be gentle when taking something from your hand.