LET’S START TRAINING!

Using the proper training tools as listed on this site, set up your cones as you see shown here on the right side of the screen. Start with the first cone set up and after several days of repetition, you can switch out the cones for a different route shown on images 2, 3, and 4, to keep the sessions interesting and fun.

To begin, place your dog in a sitting or standing position at your left side. The dogs shoulder should be in line with your hip. The lead should be held in your left hand and have very little slack so that the dog cannot move ahead, lag behind, or pull out to the side. That is not to say that you should have the lead so tight as to it pulling on the dog. The best rule of thumb is to have approximately two inches of slack from your hand (which is hanging loosely at your hip) to the dogs neck when he is placed in the right position at your side. When you move forward, simultaneously say your dog’s name along with the word HEEL in a commanding voice, i.e. "Rover HEEL". Using a steady pace with your dog matching your pace on your left side, go through the various set ups as shown on the right. It is important that the dog stay directly at your side, never lagging behind or pulling ahead. Do not allow the dog to sniff the ground during these exercises as this is about having control of your dog on the leash. Repeat the words “Rover HEEL” as you go through the course as needed to keep the dog on track with the training so he understands that the word “heel” correlates with the training of him maintaining is position at your side.

PULLING AHEAD of you: If the dog attempts to pull ahead of you, immediately say the word “HEEL” and turn to your right, to make a short, tight circle which will require the dog to also change direction to follow you. Each time the dog attempts to lunge ahead, turn to your right and spin around while saying the word “HEEL", taking the dog with you while maintaining him on your left side. In the beginning you may be doing a lot of small circles to prevent your dog from pulling ahead. This is normal and will be reduced as he figures out he isn’t being allowed to pull ahead and walk you!

LAGGING BEHIND: Some dogs lag behind simply because they cannot keep the same pace as you. Remember your dogs legs are shorter and therefore his stride may be unable to keep up. If this is the case, slow your pace down to match the ability of your dog. IF however your dog is lagging behind because he is simply refusing to do the exercise, is being stubborn, or is bored and is letting you know he’s bored, don’t give up! Using the word “HEEL”, encourage your dog to move forward by calling his name, whistle to him, tell him he is a “good boy” etc. Sometimes boredom sets in quickly and it is up to you to make the training fun!

PULLING OUT to the left side and away from you: If your dog is pulling away from your leg to move in a different direction it is important to bring him back to heel by saying “Rover HEEL” and bringing your hand and the lead back to your leg. You can make a sharp turn to the right and make a sharp circle to get his attention and bring him back to the heel. In the beginning you may be doing a lot of small circles to prevent your dog from pulling ahead. This is normal and will be reduced as he figures out he isn’t going to be allowed to pull away from you and must go in the direction you choose!

CROSSING in front of you: Many dogs will move slightly in front of you and attempt to cross in front of you which causes a tripping hazard. It is very important that you not allow too much slack in the lead. If your dog attempts to cross in front of you, Repeat the word “HEEL” while simultaneously pulling him back into position AND pushing your knee in front of him/into him to block him from succeeding. If he does succeed in getting across your path, immediately turn to your right and do a small tight circle, so that he will be back into his left side position and back into the same directional path you want him to go. In the beginning you may be doing a lot of small circles to prevent your dog from crossing in front of you. This is normal and will be reduced as he figures out he isn’t going to be allowed to change direction from you and must go in the direction you choose!

HOW OFTEN/WHEN SHOULD I TRAIN? At the beginning of training, sessions should be short and often, and always ending on a high note! Twice a day sessions at 10-15 minutes each is about all a dog (and his owner) can handle. If you are in a bad mood, don’t train. If your dog is having a case of the “zoomies” and you can’t get him to settle at that moment, end the training and try again after a break. Training should be done AFTER potty breaks and after your dog has had the chance to settle down if he has been confined while you were at work or hasn’t seen you all day. You want your dog to be ready to learn both physically and mentally and he can’t do that if he is too excited, hungry, thirsty, or has to go potty.

Now We Will Add Different Speeds

If you have performed the beginning training sessions listed above twice a day for two weeks and feel as if you AND your dog have a good understanding of basic “heel”, it’s time to make the course more challenging. Using the images shown at the right side of the page, you will note several colors, black, green, and yellow.

Black is considered a normal pace.
Yellow is a brisk, power walk.
Green is a jog.

As outlined in the images, perform the training at various rates of speed to encourage your dog to follow at the “heel” regardless of whether you are walking or running, requiring him to keep pace with you.You can alternate however you like as long as you always begin at a walk. Remember to repeat the word “heel” each time you change the pace to avoid confusion for your dog. This training should be done twice a day, every day, for two weeks before going on to the next step.

Now We Will Add Sit & Stay

At this point your dog should be heeling well at your side. It’s time to bring in other commands to the “heel” sessions. As outlined on the right. Add “sit” and “stay” to bring more mental stimulation to the sessions. The sit and stay commands should be short to begin with, 10 seconds at each stopping point and then lengthening the times until the dog is sitting and staying for several minutes before proceeding forward into the heel again. Once the dog has the sit and stay completed, you can add the command “down” alternately to the sessions.

ALTERNATE SESSIONS: For teaching your dog to obey your commands with distractions, after you have completed all of the session examples listed above, you can set up the cones in different locations to teach your dog that he still needs to respond to your commands. If you typically practice in your backyard, set up in your front yard, or go to a local park to practice.

***All dogs are individuals and their learning will progress at a variable rate. There are no guarantees that your dog will be able to learn. Dogs are either learning or forgetting, so a maintenance program must be followed if the dogs are to retain anything that they learn. Many sessions may be required to achieve desired results. Training equipment may be required to achieve desired results. The training information contained herein is designed for informational purposes only and as an option to bond with your dog through repetition and routine.

LET’S START TRAINING!

Now We Will Add Different Speeds

Now We Will Add Sit & Stay

Long Sit, Stay, Come Skit

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